When a skid steer throws a track, your entire job site can grind to a halt. This guide provides a clear, step-by-step blueprint to safely get your machine back in service, minimizing downtime and stress. While this fix will get you moving, remember that a well-maintained machine is key to tackling all the jobs you can do with a skid steer.
The Field Recovery Blueprint
This five-step plan is your immediate action guide to getting a derailed track back on your machine. Follow these steps precisely to ensure a safe and successful field repair.
- Step 1: Secure the Machine: Park on a flat, stable surface and use the machine’s bucket to lift the front end off the ground. Place heavy-duty wooden blocks under the rear for stability.
- Step 2: Release Track Tension: Locate the grease valve compartment. Use a wrench or socket to slowly loosen the grease valve (nipple), allowing grease to escape and the idler to retract.
- Step 3: Re-Seat the Track: Use a long pry bar to work the track back onto the front and rear idlers. Start by guiding it onto the sprocket teeth first.
- Step 4: Re-Tension the Track: Clean and reinstall the grease valve. Use a grease gun to pump grease back in, pushing the idler out until the track has the manufacturer-recommended sag.
- Step 5: Lower and Test: Remove the blocks, lower the machine, and drive it forward and backward for at least 30 seconds to let the track settle. Re-check the tension.
1. Warning Signs: Is Your Track About to Come Off?
Before a track comes off completely, your machine will often give you clear warning signs that something is wrong. Recognizing these symptoms allows you to stop and address the issue before it becomes a major problem.
If you hear loud thumping, flapping, or clanking noises during operation, it’s a strong indicator that your track is too loose. This is often accompanied by excessive or unusual vibration felt in the cab. You may also notice that the machine becomes sluggish or has difficulty making sharp turns, as the loose track fails to grip and drive properly.
2. The Root Cause: Why Skid Steer Tracks Derail
Understanding why a track came off is just as important as knowing how to put it back on. Addressing the root cause is the only way to prevent the same failure from happening again.
The most common reason for a derailed track is improper tension—either too loose or too tight. However, the problem can also stem from component failure, such as worn-out sprocket teeth, damaged idlers, or failing rollers. Deeper mechanical issues like broken track springs or leaking grease adjuster seals can also prevent the system from holding the correct tension. Finally, operational errors like making abrupt, high-speed turns or consistently driving on uneven ground can put excessive stress on the undercarriage and force a track off its guides.
3. Your Track Reinstallation Toolkit
Having the right tools on hand turns a crisis into a manageable task. Before you begin, gather these items to ensure the process is as smooth and safe as possible.
Your essential toolkit should include heavy-duty wooden blocks for support, a long pry bar or chisel bar for leverage, a grease gun, and a wrench or socket set. The specific socket size for the grease valve varies by model; for example, a Kubota SVL95 often requires a 19mm (3/4 inch) wrench, while many Bobcat models use a 9/16 or 3/8 inch wrench. It’s also critical to understand the basic components you’ll be working with: the sprocket (the toothed wheel that drives the track) and the front and rear idlers (the wheels that guide the track).
4. The R.A.I.L. Method: A 4-Step Process to Re-Seat Your Track
This proprietary R.A.I.L. method provides a simple, memorable, and repeatable framework for reinstalling your track. By breaking the process into four distinct phases—Raise, Alleviate, Install, and Lock-In—you can work systematically and confidently.
R: Raise & Secure the Machine
First, park the machine on the most level ground available. Use the machine’s own power by curling the bucket and pushing down to lift the front of the skid steer completely off the ground. For rock-solid stability and safety, place large wooden blocks securely under the rear of the machine’s frame.
A: Alleviate Track Tension
Next, you need to create slack in the track. Locate the grease valve access cover—typically a small metal plate on the track frame—and remove it. Using the correct size socket or wrench, slowly turn the grease valve (the grease nipple) counterclockwise. This allows hydraulic grease to escape, which is the core of releasing hydraulic pressure on your machine and letting the idler retract. If grease is stuck, especially in cold weather, apply pressure to the track with a bar to help push the idler inward.
I: Install the Track
With the tension released, you can now work the track back into place. Start by aligning the track’s internal lugs with the teeth of the rear sprocket. Once engaged, use your pry bar to methodically walk the track over the front idler. The rear idler is often the most difficult; if you need more leverage, a chain or strap looped over the machine’s lift arm can be used to pull the track up and into its final position.
L: Lock-In Final Tension
Before re-tensioning, thoroughly clean the grease valve and its threads to prevent dirt from contaminating the hydraulic system. Reinstall the valve by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten it with your wrench. Pump grease back into the system until the track sag meets your manufacturer’s specific recommendations. Finally, remove the blocks, lower the machine, and operate it for at least 30 seconds. Then, perform one last check to ensure the tension measurement is correct.
5. When Re-Seating Isn’t Enough: The Complete Track Replacement Process
Sometimes a track comes off because it’s at the end of its life and needs to be replaced entirely. If you see significant exterior damage, have very little tread depth left, or notice the sprocket teeth are worn to sharp points, it’s time for a new track.
Replacing a track is a more involved process and is best done with two people, as a single skid steer track can weigh up to 600 lbs. After lifting the machine and releasing the tension, use a pry bar to walk the old track completely off the undercarriage. Position the new track, lower the machine onto it, and then lift it again to help pull the track up. Because new tracks are much stiffer, you will need to use a combination of prying and force to work it onto the sprocket and idlers. Heavy use with certain tools from our full line of skid steer attachments can accelerate wear, making regular track inspection even more important.
6. Critical Mistakes to Avoid During Track Repair
A few common mistakes can turn a simple repair into a costly one. Avoiding these pitfalls is crucial for both your safety and the health of your machine.
The most critical error is cross-threading the grease valve during reinstallation. This can permanently damage the track adjuster, so always thread it carefully by hand before using a wrench. Another mistake is failing to clean the grease valve and gun tip, which can introduce dirt and debris into the hydraulic system. Do not use a bottle jack as your only means of support; it can easily slip or damage the machine’s underbelly. Finally, never skip the final check; after tensioning, you must run the machine and re-measure the sag to ensure it has settled correctly.
7. Proactive Maintenance: Keeping Your Tracks On for Good
The best way to fix a derailed track is to prevent it from ever happening. Shifting to a proactive maintenance mindset will save you time, money, and frustration in the long run.
A simple rule of thumb is the 50-hour inspection: check your track tension and look for undercarriage damage after every 50 hours of operation, or at least once a month. Proper tension is critical; a change in sag of just 0.5″ to 1″ can alter track tension by 3,000 pounds. Adopt operational best practices by avoiding abrupt, high-speed turns, minimizing operation in reverse, and never driving across steep slopes. Lastly, make it a habit to routinely clean mud, rocks, and other debris from the undercarriage, as this buildup can accelerate wear and cause tensioning problems.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the first step to putting a skid steer track back on?
The first and most critical step is to secure the machine. Park on a flat, stable surface, use the bucket to lift the front end, and place heavy-duty wooden blocks under the rear frame for absolute stability.
How do you release the tension on a skid steer track?
To release tension, locate the grease valve compartment on the track frame. Use the correct size wrench or socket to slowly loosen the grease valve, which allows grease to escape and lets the idler retract, creating slack in the track.
What is the best way to get the track back onto the idlers?
Use a long pry bar for leverage. Start by guiding the track’s internal lugs onto the teeth of the rear sprocket first, then methodically work the track over the front and rear idlers until it is fully seated.
How do you properly re-tension a skid steer track?
After cleaning and reinstalling the grease valve, use a grease gun to pump grease back into the system. This pushes the idler out, tightening the track until it has the manufacturer-recommended amount of sag.
What should you do immediately after re-seating and tensioning the track?
Remove the support blocks, lower the machine, and drive it forward and backward for at least 30 seconds. This allows the track to settle, after which you must perform a final check to ensure the tension is still correct.
Why does my skid steer track keep coming off?
Frequent derailment is usually caused by improper tension or worn components like sprockets and idlers. It can also indicate deeper issues such as a leaking grease adjuster seal, a bent track frame, or consistently poor operating habits like making sharp, high-speed turns.
Is the process the same for putting a track on a mini skid steer?
Yes, the fundamental process of releasing tension, re-seating the track, and re-tensioning is the same for mini skid steers. However, the components are smaller, the tracks are lighter, and the specific location of the grease valve may differ.
What should I do if grease is leaking around the valve when I try to tension the track?
A grease leak during tensioning often points to a worn-out grease gun tip or a damaged grease valve (nipple). Try a different grease gun first; if the leak persists, you will likely need to replace the grease valve itself.
Do all skid steers use a grease system for track tensioning?
No, while most models use a hydraulic (grease) tensioner, some machines, particularly certain Caterpillar models, use a mechanical adjuster. This system involves turning a large bolt to move the idler and does not use a grease valve.
What is the most common mistake to avoid when reinstalling a track?
The most critical mistake is cross-threading the grease valve during reinstallation, which can permanently damage the track adjuster. Always thread the valve carefully by hand to ensure it’s seated correctly before tightening it with a wrench.
